How do I have access to century old images for my jewelry?

 

This is an incredible story that begins in the 1800s, and I hope I can do it justice!

In the 19th century, jewelry factories used die stamping as a primary method of production. To create these intricate designs, artists were hired to hand-carve master steel dies, referred to as "hubs" (pictured above). These hubs were then used to produce working dies for stamping in the factory on drop hammers. Each hub was a unique work of art, cherished by factory owners. Even when the designs fell out of fashion or when factories closed due to the rise of casting, these hubs were carefully preserved. Miraculously, they survived two world wars with the demand for recycling of steel for arms production and were subsequently passed down through generations as treasured heirlooms.

However, as these hubs are handed down to grandchildren and great-grandchildren, many of them fail to recognize the value of these historical pieces. Sadly, some end up on the scrap market, treated as if they were mere metal rather than valuable artifacts.

And here enters the hero of our story: Kevin Potter of Potter USA in Tucson, Arizona. With the support of his wife Danielle and his son Vincent (who, with remarkable empathy for one so young, often encourages his dad to preserve entire collections), Kevin has embarked on a mission to rescue these hubs. A goldsmith turned expert machinist, Kevin has spent over a decade scouring the globe for these master dies. He purchases entire factory collections or whatever remaining sets he can find and brings them back to Tucson, where he has amassed an epic collection of historical hubs. His favorites are the elegant Art Nouveau ladies, though his collection spans every style he can find and afford, from the 1800s to the mid-20th century.

Once these hubs arrive in his workshop, Kevin and his talented team meticulously clean them—no easy task considering they are over a century old and often covered in rust and grime (see image below). After cleaning, the hubs are tested for their hardness rating. For a hub to produce working dies, it must be in excellent condition, free from fractures, and meet a minimum hardness threshold. While these hubs were originally designed to create just one or two working dies for a factory, Kevin's team presses them into steel pucks with hundreds of tons of pressure to create new dies for today’s metalsmiths. Despite their best efforts, sometimes a master hub breaks during this process, which is heartbreaking for everyone involved.

A master die is essentially a raised design (an "outie") on a steel puck, which is then pressed into a blank steel puck to create the working die (the "innie" or negative of the design). These working dies are used by jewelers to make impressions that serve as components for their jewelry pieces.

One of my own dies has the impression of a minor crack, from the original master hub, and I consider myself incredibly fortunate to have it (it's my hippocampus).  To me, they are not flaws but part of the rich history and story behind each piece.

Since my dies are made directly from antique master hubs, my jewelry is not considered "reproduction." These dies are created using the same techniques that were employed in the original factories, making my designs authentic to their era, rather than imitations of historical styles. It’s a subtle yet significant distinction—one that is challenging to explain!

My work would not be possible without the Potter family's immense dedication to preserving this important part of history. I am beyond grateful to have connected with them, as these designs are my passion and the heart of my work.

I’m thrilled to be reviving these timeless treasures and giving them a modern twist. It brings me so much joy to share these designs with women today, who seek jewelry that reflects their unique personality and style. I hope you love them as much as I do!

If you'd like to learn more about Kevin Potter and his company, visit his website at PotterUSA. This by the way, is where every drop of my spare change has been spent for the last 10 years or so!

Here's a video of Kevin describing how he got his first set of hubs from Parisi Tool - a long but fascinating video! I remember when this purchase happened and my mind was blown as I saw the dies being revealed after their cleaning. I have several pieces from this collection. You'll also see what an authentic and kind soul Kevin is in this video.

If you'd like to learn more about historical hubs, here's a great video of Peter DiCristofaro, owner of the Providence Jewelry Museum  and a friend of Kevin's - amazing stuff! I didn't know it when I first got into this niche world, but Providence Rhode Island was a major jewelry making center of the world in the 19th and 20th centuries!